Cadillac Eldorado 1970 photo from Sept. 2006. Ref 1
Cadillac Eldorado 1970 photo from Sept. 2006. Ref 1

Cadillac Eldorado 1970
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Updated
2019-09-25

©Copyright
Björn Bellander
An impressing front end. Eldorado 1970. Ref 1
An impressing front end. Eldorado 1970. Ref 1
Cadillac Coupé deVille 1973. Sold. Ref 1
Cadillac Coupé deVille 1973. Sold. Ref 1
Cad Seville 1975 with injection engine. Sold. Ref 1
Cad Seville 1975 with injection engine. Sold. Ref 1
Ford Thuderbird Elan 1984. Sold. Ref 1
Ford Thuderbird Elan 1984. Sold. Ref 1
Car Rally with local club in Västerås Sweden. Driving to Sala with local car club. Click for link to the article of this car.Sold.  Ref 1
Car Rally with local club in Västerås Sweden. Driving to Sala with local car club. Click for link to the article of this car.Sold. Ref 1
On my way home from the west coast of Sweden outside city of Örebro the car suddenly made a jerk when I slowed down. This incident ended up with towing the car home 150 km to Virsbo. The chain in gearbox had broken and I got rid of another 5 figures of Skr money. This was only one of all faults with this used car.
First some history. -------------------------------------
I had 2 years earlier bought my "dream" car, a 1973 Cad Seville. After these years I began to get tired of it. The most irritation thing was that it didn't was equipped with cruise control. Then it was also some points of  flaws in the painting and that outer vinyl roof was not good. Inside top had a hole. Engine was weak with only 200 hp for this heavy car. Otherwise nothing wrong with this 35000 km car. Perhaps I should have put my money on this one instead of the next car I bought. It was too easy to sell. At Power Meet in Västerås a guy came up and asked if it was for sale. It was some kind of being a tuff guy to have everything for sale for the right price. He was prepared to pay  Skr 95000:- and I had only paid Skr 64000:- Of course I could not resist this with the former writing in mind. I had earlier owned a Cad Seville and a Thunderbird 1984, also a Lincoln Continental which soon was sold. The Seville was sold to a lawyer in Stockholm. The Thunderbird is still left. Seems to be hard to sell. May be to late year model and to less hp for the 302 engine. For myself I think it is very nice and in a wonderful order. The boy that bought my 73 Cad made strict investigations and was even in contact with former owner. The 73 Cad had also another weakness and it was the AC-system. The cooling did not function good and often burned it's fuse. It was generally irritating when it delivered warm air instead of cold. Now I had lots of money and the searching for my next dream car started. I, for the moment, had 3 American cars and a Golf Turbo Diesel. The Lincoln was later sold for Skr 65000:- See myarticle about this car. This time I had to be very close which Cad model I should chose. This time the Cad had to be in my hands for a long time. But first the right model. It must not be a tractor model from the fifties. It must be equipped with all goodies a powerful engine and also perhaps a unusual model. All this led to Cadillac Eldorado 1970. This was the last model before changing body and I thought it was a car that had no more child illnesses.








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Still black but with new tires. Ref 1
Still black but with new tires. Ref 1
From behind still black. A real pimp car.  Ref 1
From behind still black. A real pimp car. Ref 1
Receipt on my buying. Ref 1
Receipt on my buying. Ref 1
I drove around and looked at 2 objects. One 68 found in village of Insjön. It was generally good with new upholstery, but flywheel ring gear was worn and the starter motor was sticky in one place. You don't buy a car in order to lift the engine. Then I didn't like the plastic type of upholstery.
Next was in town of Hofors. It was a 69. Sorry to say I understood that the car was almost at the end of it's life. The interior, front end didn't sound good. Furthermore it was black all over.

My Car was found in an ad and could be seen in Borlänge. Later I found out that it was a firm named DreamCars. They were to sell it. The car came from Luleå and was once imported by Good-Year Tire Company in Norrköping. It was also black, but what the matter I had to paint it with new color. I had too much money so my judgment failed. It was easy to drive to Borlänge. It is not far away. I was already lost for this car. A shorter test tour was done. I heard some noise from front end but no more than I could accept when I made a full turn. The AC system didn't function of course. Very seldom they do in used cars. The paint on hood and trunk cover turned out to be unsuccessful. Granular. Bad undercoating work. But I could just rub it, according to the seller. I didn't say anything because I was going to repaint it anyway. I could have said: "Well you make it. Then I buy".

You can see the car in two photos outside my home with new tires. An important thing was that it was not rusty. A common thing in Sweden. I drove the car home after having paid cash. The seller might have been under the pressure of his wife, because I had to wait while he had his dinner. Women power.

I drove the car home proud like a cook. Rolled up on my driveway where the car got it's place. This was 1996 when there were bad times in Sweden. Most people had no jobs. I was lucky to have one at the turbine manufacturer Stal Laval in Finspång. Several English engineers were also there. It was not a nice place, because we consulting people were very bad handled. We kept good faces because bad working times in a country don't last so long time. More about this in my article about my jobs. Not ready 2006.

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An impressing front. Ref 1
An impressing front. Ref 1
The receipt from Ferrita. Click for the guarantee. Ref 1
The receipt from Ferrita. Click for the guarantee. Ref 1
I had earlier driven my 73 Cad, Thunderbird or Seville to Finspång. Now it became the Eldorado.

Here I lived at a boarding house and had to park outside. Most times I had my Thunderbird. One Friday afternoon, when I was on my way home to Virsbo with the Eldo. We worked half Friday. I have then to drive through Katrineholm and it was time to fill up. Perhaps best to check oil level. I had not notice that there was any smoke in exhaust pipes. The oil stick didn't show anything at all. What is this? I had to ad 3 litres. Then there were only 2 litres left in oil pan. This was the starting point for several years of renovation jobs in different cost of levels. This engine was perhaps not in so good stand. My work in Finspång ended and I got e new one in Virsbo thanks to my work mate Thomas Wallin. This suited me very well.

Now I am going to tell you with pictures about my troubles and work with this car. A preceding comment is that I perhaps like to handle a car in this way. My earlier cars had been to kind and in too good stands. In that way they had not engaged my interest for mechanical troubles enough. I also only tell you the bigger things all others you can follow in my receipt picture gallery.

The order that this is told may not be chronological. Any way the first thing was to change to stainless steal exhaust pipes. This is the worst thing to handle. I ordered working time at Ferrita in Köping. There was at the time when the owner Mikeal Ljungström made the job himself. He started to know me because this was the fourth car I came with. He did a perfect job only that I found the sound was too high. I didn't want it to be a hot rod. Later I added 2 bombs and I had it.  Besides they had lifetime guarantee. See more in my receipt picture gallery.

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I mounted a hood mark. Ref 1
I mounted a hood mark. Ref 1
Swap Meet at old Barkarby air field. Ref 1
Swap Meet at old Barkarby air field. Ref 1
Cruising from Brostugan 1999. Look at my new hood mark. Ref 1
Cruising from Brostugan 1999. Look at my new hood mark. Ref 1
Driving with my brother Jan to our child place Strömsund 1999 where we onve lived 1945. Ref 1
Driving with my brother Jan to our child place Strömsund 1999 where we once lived 1945. Ref 1
When you have bought your dream car there is a habit to put your own stamp on it. For my sake it was to mount a Cadillac mark on the front hood. Cad Eldo 70 has no such thing original.

I bought a new mark from TA-Motor i Luleå. Expensive like hell but as popular to say at that time. "Who cares". It was some work to get it nicely in place, but I succeeded at last. Next thing was to mount a stainless steel exhaust system with two outlet pipes. Original there is a common muffler. Ferrita made so I got 2 pipes out of it. The muffler is situated just in front of petrol tank. Before the muffler, 2 so called bombs, were mounted in order to get a low noise level. I was though not satisfied with this. Later another 2 bombs were mounted just before outlet in the rear.  In spite of high oil consumption the car went well and I drove all summer and visited swap meets and made picnics with Cadillac Club. In this Club I am the 13th member and have been member since 1993 when it was founded. During this year I learned all weaknesses of the car and put up a list of what should be done. 1) Engine renovation, 2) Front end renovation, 3) Checking up brakes front and rear. 4) New interior including rear luggage. 5) Shock absorbers front. 6) Shock absorbers rear. 7) Under protection coating. 8) Repainting with matching interior color. 9) Get the air condition working. 10) New petrol tank. 11) New vinyl top. 12) Together with engine renovation new carburettor and overhaul of the cylinder heads. Then it happened that some things must be considered at once. Like overhaul of gearbox after break down.  The order was not done I had planned. Original radio did function in the beginning but ended later. I think it was some kind of vibrator that stopped working. The clock has never worked. Very common in older American cars. They have been parked without lifting of the battery connection. You will, with this manner, burn a coil in the clock when current ends. Besides I have had the instrument panel down but not fixed these things. Now I have a mental resistance doing this. TA bought a new clock in America without guarantee, and of course it didn't work. Are there more things to do on a car?

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Vacuum container. Ref 1
Vacuum container. Ref 1
Switch valve for hot water. Ref 1
Switch valve for hot water. Ref 1
Earth switch for the fan.
Earth switch for the fan.
View of engine. Ref 1
View of engine. Ref 1
Now I am only going to tell about things that could be of special interest for Cadillac owners.

The air condition is very interesting because there is hard to understand. I have learned
much from my earlier cars, Lincoln and Cad Seville. What you first must realize is that in the end it will cost Skr 16 to 20000 before you are ready. Don't believe that a AC system, that has not been used for years, suddenly is going to function only because you fill up with freon.

No, instead there is perhaps, that without starting actions, there will be more expensive. To be able to do these starting actions buy a good vacuum pump. There are also some transmitters and vacuum valves which must be in good order. I have earlier in my picture gallery mentioned about the vacuum electric valve which is situated on the fan. It has difficulties to act. Possible is it the way that the rubber membrane gets harder by time and the vacuum doesn't have strength to activate it.

I use to switch over to ice on the instrument panel, or press backside the switch with my finger. Then it starts. Besides on the firewall in the middle there is a control vacuum motor which pulls a lever. To this one, several small plastic pipes are connected. They are of a little harder type. Loose them and write carefully to which nipple they are connected.

Warm them so it will be easier to loosen. Start engine and let it be warm. Put the control arm on the panel in different places. Use the vacuum pump to control that they are under vacuum. Note that those nipples not connected must be closed. 

If not all are good this unit must be investigated. It might have come dirt in the control unit which has blocked a connection. It is constructed by 2 pressed zinc plates. They are working against each other to give different ways for vacuum. In front on the right side there is a valve that close hot water flow to the water core. This one is also controlled by vacuum.

You have a smaller vacuum container which gets the vacuum from the inlet manifold. The connection is behind the carburettor. This one is also connected to the vacuum servo. A common place for leakage is the return valve for cruise control. It is put on the brake pedal. The same is for return valve of hand brake pedal. Its vacuum clock is often broken or the connection has fallen off.

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Instrument panel control for cooling and heating on the door. Ref 1
Instrument panel control for cooling and heating on the door. Ref 1
This connection on my AC cooler was broken. Ref 1
This connection on my AC cooler was broken. Ref 1
This valve is important. Cooling is created in this. Ref 1
This valve is important. Cooling is created in this. Ref 1
Identification of certified filler of freon. Ref 1
Identification of certified filler of freon. Ref 1
In addition there is a switch behind the generator which gives earth to the fan. This one is easy to check with a volt meter. Put the switch in water and heat  it up. Start to check that you have earth at 90°. Is there contact it's ok. Now we have checked quite much.

We continue to investigate behind the instrument panel. The heating control is the most important. When you play with it in all possible positions you will hear how different vacuum clocks push and pull valves. Check that all are in good condition. Note again that engine must be warm when this test is done.

Any problems, disconnect the rubber pipe which lead to the clock, put on your vacuum pump and check again. If this is ok your trouble is before this valve most likely in the vacuum distributor behind your heating control.

Now you can do either of two ways. Crawl in under the panel upside down and bring with you a air pressure nozzle. Pull the multi vacuum contact from its place and blow with pressurized air (about 2 kg/cm² and higher). If you are lucky some dirt which has closed the channels will loose. If this won't help you must dismantle your heater connection and clean by hand. This is quite a tricky job.

Now when everything hopefully are ok its time to order time at a garage  which is specialized on ACs. Don't order just filling of freon. Your system must be checked. For example there are filters which surely are closed.

Connections, core and cooler may be leaking. Your compressor pump must be cleaned or changed. A certain amount of fresh compressor oil must be added to the system. A renovated compressor doesn't cost so much. Often it is a good choice to change to a new one. Perhaps you have pipes for the old type of  freon. This garage checks everything and also have the permission to fill up with freon.

Then they check that everything are in good order. You can come and fetch your lovely car Skr. 16000 less of money. Look what a nice mark you get. You must have this for the yearly car inspection.


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The renovated petrol tank. Ref 1
The renovated petrol tank. Ref 1
This is the result of new interior for Skr 48000:-. Ref 1
This is the result of new interior for Skr 48000:-. Ref 1
Totally stripped seats. Ref 1
Totally stripped seats. Ref 1
Receipt for interior. Look further in my picture gallery. Ref 1
Receipt for interior. Look further in my picture gallery. Ref 1
Even if my Eldo was not rusty or destroyed in any other way, you should always as soon as possible give it undercoating protection. Specially in Sweden with salty roads all winter long. Because of this I got my car protected in Butbro outside Finspång.

In order to get it cleaned they used high pressurized water with some sand. This was good and it showed other faults. In my place it was the petrol tank that started to leak. Many times there are in the way that the tank starts to be rusty on the upper side. My was leaking between the two halves. The plate is folded upwards so sand and water are kept in place and don't fall away. Of course it was a disaster, but I could drive with half tank. No I had to fix a new used one. At Osby scrap yard I found one. I got it home but it was also attacked by rust. I had to put steel-plastic on. Usually it is worst on the upper side under the holding bands, where the sand are left.

When this was ready I had to put inside protection with a special white liquid.
The most difficult is to take away the copper socking, inside the tank, around the soaking pipe. It is more easy to take away then to mount. This socking must not be tightened by the color. I poured in color and then turned the tank around. It took some time but then I could dismantle the original tank and mount the "new" one. Beware before you dismantle a tank. Be sure it is empty as much as possible. Use the famous hydrometer way. Half tank with petrol will need 4, 20 liters jeep containers with petrol. Then loosen the holding bands and mount the renovated one. When all this are ready you can take time to fix the old one too. Just to have one in reserve. 
------------------
The point that got me to start for interior and top. I was on my way to Stockholm when I heard some sort of flapping sound. I stopped at a grocery store outside Bålsta. What could it be. It saw that the top had lost its glue adhesion backside the windscreen. This was because of the warm weather and that someone hade used wrong type of glue. I bought a standard glue tube.

Fixed it for the moment and continued driving with one hand through my side window. Talked to the saddler in Västerås. Ordered new top and material for interior. At this time my divorce happened and I had to cancel everything. I didn't know how that  thing should end up. My saddler was a nice person when I asked for mercy paying Skr 500. Perhaps he had some feeling for me. Later I ordered this job at Södra Sadelmakeriet in Stockholm. At this place both my brother and I had years earlier got our cabs for Ford 32 Roadster done in late 50th. It took a long time but became a perfect job. In this I got a new top imported from America and interior in rear luggage. My brother took a picture of the seat frame. It was just looking like a heap of rusty steel threads. How to get this in order, but he managed.

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Cross section of gearbox in order to show the place of broken chain.
Cross section of gearbox in order to show the place of broken chain.
The brake down receipt. Ref 1
The brake down receipt. Ref 1
My next problem or disaster happened on the motor road outside Örebro. There it is a shopping centre. I had to slow down a little when I felt something jerking the car. In all such opportunities my skin got goose flesh all over. I turned into the shopping center area, but the car behaved well so I continued driving. But again. The car stopped pulling itself forward and, I was lucky, I could stop at the next exit road. The engine was still on but gearbox didn't function. When I switch to drive gear nothing happened so I understood that the chain was broken. I had no mobile phone so I stopped and asked people in car to phone for a brake down van. They promised to phone when they had reach their home in Örebro. Although I forgot to ask how long time it would take.

Next car had a mobile phone and they called at once. After a while a nice brake down van driver came in a Ford lorry. I explained for him but as I understood he didn't believe what upset car owners are saying. He knew his job and tried himself. Well he understood at once and started to bring up my car on his lorry. When this was ready the next brake down van came and I got problem to explain. I was lucky that they accepted my history other wise I had to pay for their driving to the place of my car. There is a struggle for the clients. "Where are we going" my helper asked. "I want my car transported to Virsbo" was my answer. Then he hade some talking to his central over radio and we rolled along with his soft spring lorry. At home I got help to push the car inside my garage and everything was good. I paid by check and was lucky, except for being rid of almost Skr 5000.

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Right front engine bracket. Camera is pointing backwards.The U-beam is the fastener and it continres under and up to the fastening place on the left side. Ref 1
Right front engine bracket. Camera is pointing backwards.The U-beam is the fastener and it continres under and up to the fastening place on the left side. Ref 1
Left inner drive connection. The steering hardy plate is shown and the rear edge of differential. Ref 1
Left inner drive connection. The steering hardy plate is shown and the rear edge of differential. Ref 1
Left front bracket. The L-iron with the hole is there to stabilize the differential. Here you find the long bolts. Compare with former picture.This bracket follows with when lifting engine. Ref 1
Left front bracket. The L-iron with the hole is there to stabilize the differential. Here you find the long bolts. Compare with former picture.This bracket follows with when lifting engine. Ref 1
Gear box oil pipes to cooler. Ref 1
Gear box oil pipes to cooler. Ref 1
Right inner drive connection. Note the starting motor relay behind. Ref 1
Right inner drive connection. Note the starting motor relay behind. Ref 1
Now I had nothing else to do than preparing to lift engine and gearbox. Start to dismantle the engine hood and store it on the roof of the car. I have learned that in this situation it is easier to take both engine, gearbox and differential gearing in one go. Earlier I had lifted only engine for its renovation.

Experience is good to have. Dismantle as much as you can from engine before lifting. Start with emptying freon from AC-system. Take away all connection pipes. Lift out the compressor. If you don't want to empty freon you can turn the compressor to the right side.

If you choose this it will be much more difficult to lift engine. I don't recommend it. Empty engine from all water and oil, even in differential. Take away the rod over cooler and also the V-type from inner wheel cover to fire wall. This will give you more room for engine lift and work.

Turn the servo pump without unfasten the pipes. Now it is time for exhaust pipes and manifolds. Let the main exhausts pipes rest on floor. Continue with carburettor, intake manifold and top heads Now you can study the main driving axles. Those must be loosened from their inner connection. They have 6 fine threaded torx bolts. Look in my picture and notice the small but thick washer.

Both driving shaft will then rest on lower front wheel control arm. Put something there so they wont lie direct against. Right side inner driving shaft from differential is bolted to the engine block. This one will follow the engine when lifting. Left side, there is only a short axle. This one may slide out so take it away. Carefully otherwise you can destroy the seal.

The differential is mounted direct to the gearbox. Don't loosen it. It is only for skilled mechanics. The differential is also connected to the engine block by a L-iron plate. In the case you want to lift only engine some time later you must take notice in which direction the bolts is mounted. Those long ones are only able to be taken away in one direction.

The main engine mount is a long U-formed plate going under and up on the other side. This  plate is in turn fastened to the front main frame. Take away the bolt from the front main bracket just under the V-grooved pulley. The bolts are loosened from underside.

It is time to rig your lifting device before you loose rear engine bracket. There is a plate in the rear edge of turbine house. Crawl under and study so you know, look also in my pictures. Now it is time to start to lift. It is tight on both sides most on left side. Take it easy and check often so you have total control.


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The edge of the plate, where the turbine housing ends is the rear engine bracket. Seen from right side. Ref 1
The edge of the plate, where the turbine housing ends is the rear engine bracket. Seen from right side. Ref 1
Same bracket as former picture seen from left side. Close up picture. Ref 1
Same bracket as former picture seen from left side. Close up picture. Ref 1
The rod over cooler to be taken away for easier engine lift. Ref 1
The rod over cooler to be taken away for easier engine lift. Ref 1
Some pictures which shows the engine brackets. Front and rear. Also the rods to be taken away. Take also away the grill. It is easy to touch and easy to be bent. If you have read this with interest, you understand that engine lift in an Eldorado is not a simple job. It takes a week from you, working evenings, Saturday and Sunday. Doing this kind of job just take it easy. Take many photos. The manual is hard to follow because there is only text.

When  engine is moved and standing on the floor, you must separate the gearbox and diff from the engine block. This is considerably simpler job and you don't risk to destroy anything. My aim was only to deliver the gearbox, but decided to send gearbox and differential. That was a good decision. Now I got a overhaul of this with new tightening and bearings. With my type of dismantling I could not see anything behind the turbine. Therefore I didn't really knew what has happened. Although the chain cover had some swellings. Though I had a feeling.

Later I got the information that certain spare parts was not able to get for this type of gearbox. The workshop had to manufacture them. I also got to know that this was the last time they accepted a overhaul of this type of gearbox. Everything was sent back to me mounted and guaranteed tight. Now I "only" had to mount everything again. If you have dismount a engine you have enough knowledge to get it in place again. Last I show the receipt from Alexandra Engineering. I think I was lucky. It might have cost much more.


Page 1 of gearbox receipt. This is a easy to read one. Ref 1
Page 1 of gearbox receipt. This is a easy to read one. Ref 1
Page 2 of gearbox receipt. Ref 1
Page 2 of gearbox receipt. Ref 1

Complete bearing. I try to use the names shown here.
Complete bearing. I try to use the names shown here.
Complete drive axle. I try to use these names of the parts.
Complete drive axle. I try to use these names of the parts.
Double roller bearing A23 for front end. Ref 1
Double roller bearing A23 for front end. Ref 1
Now we have come to front end. With this I mean renovation of knuckle and front bearings. In my Eldo there is a special construction for a front drive car. This construction saw the light already 1966 in Oldsmobile. That model was a test car. The main problem, which I after a long time of studying found, were the knuckles. You may also call them uprights.

The bearing surfaces were too weak for the power of engine. I mean that the bearing surfaces could not resist the power from drive joint. The conical bearings, were fastened in place only by drive fit. When the drive axle puts its power in a turn it becomes not only rotation forces also radial power. These are so large that the bearing surface of the knuckles were pressed to a larger radius and the tight fit is lost. The bearing  started to slip outwards. This because they had no active locking than inwards.

It could be so big opening between inner and outer rings of the bearing that rollers jumped out of their mountings. On the first 2 models, years 67and 68, there were drum brakes in front. On these cars it could happened that the wheel got loose and took hub and outer race with, but was stopped by the knuckle. Difficult to explain in words, but guaranteed a catastrophe.

Then when the cars were equipped with disk brakes there became a lesser catastrophe because the movement of outer race was prevented by the disk and brake caliper. Anyway the wheel could be quite loose. The yearly scrutinize didn't like this, but didn't know the cause. I always said "I will tightening the crown nut a little". As you perhaps understand the cause was not this nut.

When I searched for my Cadillac I came in touch with a father whose son had dropped the front wheel on the motorway to Uppsala. It was a Eldo 68. He meant that it was sabotage. Well the solution of my problem was to have the bearings strictly in place again. I had bought an extra pair of knuckles at Osby scrap yard and built up these from scratch in order to exchange them with my original ones. It took long time and much testing before I grasped the connections. It happened also that I destroyed bearings and tightening before I had everything in order.

From this work I give you pictures and explaining text. It will be quite complete for those who are seriously interested.

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If you can't nake it in any other way. Do like this. Ref 1
If you can't nake it in any other way. Do like this. Ref 1
This bearing surface must have drive fit. Otherwise glue. Ref 1
This bearing surface must have drive fit. Otherwise glue. Ref 1
First start with dismounting the knuckles. Raise the car in front and take away front wheel. Then steering rod, brake rubber pipe, caliper and brake disk. Now we have come a bit on our way. Loosen the famous crown nut. You can always take up the moment by having an iron between the wheel studs. If your car is really bad as all Eldos with front drive are, it is only to pull out the hub. Now you can reach bearing retainer and dust shield. I you are unlucky there is one outer bearing ring left with roller cage. With outer means the outer bearing in the knuckle. I count everything from this. It is almost impossibly to get a grip on this for a puller.

Use cape chisel and break the roller cage. Then take a grinding pin and do as the picture shows. It shows that when you have grounded as far as I have done in the picture, it will say click and the ring is loose. Establish the simple fact that it is more difficult to squeeze inner surface than expanding the outer. Note carefully how the tightening is mounted. Eventually you can save it. Pull also in the outer race and understand that nothing is holding it and drive axles horizontally.

Now have a look inside the knuckle, there you have the outer ring for the bearing. It has slip fit. I am sure you can take it out by hand. If it isn't possibly first you have to dismantle the knuckle from its upper and lower ball joints and the you can press the joints or hit with a hammer and sledge. Then you can press or hit the outer bearing ring from its place. But we assume that this is not necessary.

Now turn the matter over in your mind that there is nothing preventing these bearings and outer race to slip outwards. If the tight fit has gone nothing hold the wheel system. Look at the picture that demonstrates this. 3 sides down. Here there is place to make a Seeger ring track for security, if you wish. Note also in which direction the outer bearing ring is pointed.
Picture out of TA's catalouge with permission. Ref TA motor.
Picture out of TA's catalouge with permission. Ref TA motor.
Now is also the fact that outer race is still in the hole so you can't see so much. We must first take away the knuckle. You will clearly see the upper and lower ball joints. Loose the nut which press the conical part of the ball joint. This joint is hard in place and the only way to dismantle them are as the picture shows. Use hammer and sledge and give it hard hits till the joint jumps out of it's place. The picture is from the yellow catalogue of TA. It can take a while depending how skilled you are to hit the right place. One hint is. Let the nut be in place so the thread is protected. Don't hit in length direction of your car, instead crossover. The hits will answer much better.

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The knuckle with ball jonits mounted for demo. Ref 1
The knuckle with ball jonits mounted for demo. Ref 1
Outer race. Ref 1
Outer race. Ref 1
The drive constant velocity joint inside outer race. Ref 1
The drive constant velocity joint inside outer race. Ref 1
Now, you perhaps think, I has forgotten to put a hi-jack under the control arm, in order to control the lower arm. But no. The car is equipped with torsion wheel suspension and this system don't allow the arm to fall uncontrolled. The knuckle is now hanging on outer race.

Grip knuckle with both hands and pull it outwards while you push outer race inwards The outer and inner bearing rings follow with. The bearing part with rollers follows because the tightening pulls it. Look at the picture of the knuckle. I have put on ball joints just for demo.

They are still left in the control arms. The picture is seen from inside of knuckle. In the large hole is the place for tightening ring which pulled the inner ring with rollers. Notice also that there are nipples where the conical parts are. When loosen the ball joints try to hit here. Turn the knuckle for cross over direction of hits, when dismantled the ball joints.

Now the knuckle is lying on your floor and outer race is resting on lower control arm.
You must now loosen the cover for the joint. Cut the permanent seal band clamp. Roll the cover over and look at the complicated joint. Scrap grease away till you see the drive axle with its spline. The axle goes into this joint and is locked with a snap ring. This one is bound to be loosen. If you don't have a good tool, buy one.

Then you can pull out outer race by hand from the axle. Now you have the outer race in your hand according to picture. You can see the turning which is the place for seal band clamp. On the same picture you see a short horizon surface. Here is the place where the tightening slips with its lips. The round surface which has the same diameter as the spline is a free surface and has no function. In the end of the race you see the thread for the crown nut. The second picture shows the joint with all movable parts.

This joint is constructed for constant rotation. That means that rotation has constant velocity even if you turn steering wheel or the movement of control arms.
If you are going to change the ball joints. Start with the upper ball joint. Remove the rivets with cross chisel, drill or grind them away. Same thing with lower ball joint. If they are changed before it is easier because they are put in place with bolts and nuts.
--------------------------
One note according to constant rotation. Bugatti built a front wheel drive racing car before the war, but had not solved this problem with constant rotation. The car was unable to drive on asphalt road surfaces. It lost its friction in every turn. It was a good car driving in coarse sand roads. In those races it was successful because they drove all the time with wheel spin. See my article about Bugatti.
--------------------------
Now back to Eldorado. This joint is to be dismantled.

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The drive joint dismantled. In the backgound mounted. Ref 1
The drive joint dismantled. In the backgound mounted. Ref 1
Inner spider. Ref 1
Inner spider. Ref 1

The joint consist of, see picture, snap ring, inner race or spider, outer race or cage, balls and outer race. Compare names with picture earlier. Now lock at my pictures. Outer race looks very fine when you look inside. Not easy to manufacture in series. Now look at the spider.
In this place the joint is placed. Ref 1
In this place the joint is placed. Ref 1
Casting mark. R=right side. Ref 1
Casting mark. R=right side. Ref 1
This one is used and you can see the track where the balls mostly have been working. This is the cause why front end makes a clicking sound when turning. The balls snap in and out of this place. This can also be caused by bad heat treatment. May be, this one is for change. You don't need to dismantle more of the axle system because inner joint is never worn because of needles, unless the protection is destroyed. But keep your finger crossed because this inner joint costs 1997 Skr. 4400:- for one.

See the cross section of drive axle.
How to fix all this? Start to put the ball joints in place. Perhaps you need to drill up the 3 holes for the upper joint and 2 holes for the lower. Note as close as possibly for the bolts. If you have taken away both knuckles there is a letter mark which one to put on right and left side. R for right, L for left. There are 2 kind of ball joints. These differs by the ball joints conical diameter. Year 69 has a lesser diameter and have a price of Skr 1685:- while they for 1970 year costs only under Skr 1000:-

LocTite which I used no. 601. Ref 1
LocTite which I used no. 601. Ref 1
Alternative LocTite. Ref 1
Alternative LocTite. Ref 1
Although both knuckle types fit to both year models. Remember that I had bought a 69 knuckle. All pictures are from a 70th knuckle. The biggest conical measure for 70th are in upper Ø18.2 mm and lower Ø19.2 mm.
Now you must have a good logistic, in order to mount the bearings and outer race. But you must glue them with LocTite. Choose between two kinds according to my pictures. I used the 601 but the other is as good. Be very careful not to get locking glue on the rollers and that you know exactly in which order you make it.

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Now we start to mount. Inner ring + distance ring. Ref 1
Now we start to mount. Inner ring + distance ring. Ref 1
Here I have put the complete ouetr bearing for demo. Ref 1
Here I have put the complete ouetr bearing for demo. Ref 1
Start to clean careful with thinner. This is the best cleaning liquid and leaves a clean surface. Rinse also with it. Spread LocTite so the glue cover the whole surface very thin. Only on the place for the ring. Turn the conical ring in the right direction. Look at my picture. This is the ring that together with inner ring absolutely must have the right adhesion. This bearing takes forces outwards direction. The other bearing, I call outer, only takes forces inwards. But it must nevertheless have good adhesion. Check carefully that no glue has spread over the edge. When the inner ring has hardened put the distance ring in. See picture. Now you can prepare to glue the next ring and glue the surface. Just like you did for the inner one. Turn the conical surface outwards. Slip carefully on the ring. Opposite the other one. Check as usual that everything is ok. Look at the picture. Here I have, only for testing, put the roller ring in place. Establish that the remaining place is enough for the outer tightening ring. You can also rework this free place for a security stop ring if you wish. I didn't.
The hub ready to be mounted with bearing details. Ref 1
The hub ready to be mounted with bearing details. Ref 1
This is how it looks before I glue the outer roller ring. This is later put in the knuckle. Note that dust shield is missing. Ref 1
This is how it looks before I glue the outer roller ring. This is later put in the knuckle. Note that dust shield is missing. Ref 1
Now take away this inner roller ring. Pick up the hub. We are going to glue the other parts of the bearing. Put the hub on the stud side. First we must check that we are doing everything right. Yes, first put over the bearing retainer and the dust shield, not shown and last outer seal. Prepare to glue the roller ring according to picture and press the ring to bottom of hub. When this has been hardened insert the hub from outside of knuckle an turn the unit and let it stand on the 5 studs. Press with help of a screwdriver the tightening in place.
The hub is put in the knuckle and the last bearing ring is glued. Lastly is the seal mounted. Ref 1
The hub is put in the knuckle and the last bearing ring is glued. Lastly is the seal mounted. Ref 1
Picture of engine. Note special the final drive.
Picture of engine. Note special the final drive.
Fasten the bearing retainer and dust shield with its 3 bolts. Now glue the free outer area of the hub and press in the last roller ring as long as possibly. Now you have only to press in the inner tightening. Remember to be very careful with glue when putting on for the last bearing. This part is as important as all the others. When all this are done the knuckle is ready. Now you can play with your complete knuckle and be proud. Remember you have to do the same process on the other side.
I assume you already have mounted the outer race on the drive shaft with its snap ring. Insert the outer race into the knuckle. Check that the tightening rubber edges will lay good on its surfaces. Everything must be thoroughly greased. Some molybdenum disulphide on the spline. Then mount the prepared ball joints. Not mentioned earlier but the rubber brake pipe is fastened through a plate under the upper ball joint nut. Slip on the joint rubber cover and fasten the seal band clamp.   Here you have the possibility to use swear words. During this moment I have assumed that engine and final drive are not in place. Now its time to fill up turbine with oil and mount engine block with gearbox and final drive. Wait with surroundings parts till you have the unit mounted. Remount the unit, screw the drive shafts and make everything else backwards. Still remember. Don't be in a hurry. Now its time to go inside kiss wife. have a snaps and go to bed.

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This was done with the engine. Ref 1
This was done with the engine. Ref 1
The worn knocks of the camshaft. Ref 1
The worn knocks of the camshaft. Ref 1
After this enormous action is there no difficulties to go back in time and remember when I left the engine for renovation. This was done without lifting the gearbox and final drive. Strip the engine as much as possible and remember to loose the plate for final drive. Taking away the front engine mount. This follows the engine block when lifting. Furthermore divide engine before turbine. you must jerk the block a little so it jumps out of its centering. As fast as this is done place a plate which press the turbine in its place, otherwise it will fall of and all oil pour out on your floor.

Then wrap the engine block in plastic film. Then it was sent to Nacka Motor renovation works. It took lots of time but one day it was transported back to my garage. As you can see it did cost almost Skr 10000:-.

This job included grinding crankshaft, grinding of cylinders, new rings, lifters, water pump and a new camshaft. The rear nocks was worn. Then I come back to that they didn't switched on the eccentric for petrol pump. Note that I had got a new water pump and it was mounted, so I couldn't see it. Well lucky enough I got the old camshaft back and there the eccentric was still mounted. I didn't recognize this in all my ecstasy.

With this followed unnecessary buying of high pressure pump and a new original pump and later a normal SU-pump. Lots of job naturally. This with engine renovation was as easy as light wind compared to the front end.
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For demo I have put in the horrfying plastic petrol pipe. The new steel pipe is to be seen just under. Ref 1
For demo I have put in the horrfying plastic petrol pipe. The new steel pipe is to be seen just under. Ref 1
There are much more to tell. For ex. when the petrol pipe pump jumped of its connection to the carburettor. See picture. Perhaps this incident is worth some words. Close after the rod crossing for Ramnäs north Västerås. I was on my way home a beautiful warm summer day.

The car rolled on quite nicely, when I discovered an ice area on the engine hood. What is this? I had pressed the throttle after the speed limit area. Better to make a stop. White smoke came out of the openings of the hood. I felt the smell of petrol at once. The engine was switched off. I realized that the petrol pipe had jumped off. I knew that it was only a plastic pipe and it had no seal band, but I had not understood that this was a serious fault. The type of pipe made of soft transparent plastic. Do I dare to open the hood. I must, to clear of the gases and everything to be cold down.

There was plenty of petrol all around and specially in all deep section of inlet manifold. The curious thing is that the engine had run very good only by the petrol gases sucked in through the air filter. God Bless my Car. It could have been set on fire. I had toilet paper in the back, always have, and used it to clear away all petrol liquid and waited 15 minutes before starting the engine and drive home. Went immediately to
The 2 relays which direct the current from generator and main headlamps. This is a must when you have 55 W lamps. Ref 1
The 2 relays which direct the current from generator and main headlamps. This is a must when you have 55 W lamps. Ref 1
the phone in order ask for a new petrol steel pipe from TA. This pipe is now in place.
----------------------
One night the main headlamps went out. In the same time I met another car. I could not see that the dimmed headlamps still was on because of the light from the meeting car. Heart far up in my throat. This depended on that the automatic fuse of the headlamp switch went out. Everything went black. I had to rebuild the electric system with 2 relays and taking current direct from generator.
------------------------
Then I changed door hinges. The clock and radio, brakes front, brakes rear. Hijackers rear an worked with original vacuum pump to get air pressure to them. Shock absorbers front. Correction of torsion rods in order to have the car in a horizon altitude. You can follow all this and much more in my picture gallery for my receipts. Every receipt has its story. You can also se what price things had 1996 and later.

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Changing of valve lifters

I have had all the time since I bought this car one noisy valve. This disappeared with higher engine rpm. This was still there even after the renovation of engine. After this I have also changed all hydraulic lifters and even lowered the rocker arm bridge about 0,2 mm. In spite of these actions the noisy valve sound didn't disappeared. I have found out that it is the exhaust valve from cyl 8. Now after several years I decided to try to do something about it. I bought the necessary spare parts like packing for the manifold and missing rocker arms and supports to change with.

Show how to bring AC out of the way without emptying. Ref 1
Show how to bring AC out of the way without emptying. Ref 1
Show push rods and place for lifters.  Ref 1
Show push rods and place for lifters. Ref 1
I had investigated that it was not necessary to empty the AC system, as it is possible to bring the AC pump to the side. Further more only the cone belts and manifold where necessary to dismantle. I have also controlled the closing time for the suspected valve. For this I run the engine with starter motor and stopped when the valve was fully open. The valve closed itself in 10 sek. This meant that the hydraulic lifter was leaking oil in some way. Because of the amount of oil coming from the oil pump this was not a plausible fault. Oil in this place is coming from the main route.
I had also since long time ago parts for the valve rocker bridge. Those where meant to be changed with the lowered ones. Everything should be as original.
Show the construction of this lifter. Ref 1
Show the construction 1 of this lifter. Ref 1
Show construction 2 of this lifter. Ref 1
Show construction 2 of this lifter. Ref 1
Show contruction 3 for this lifter.  Ref 1
Show contruction 3 for this lifter. Ref 1
Here I show the different construction of the hydraulic lifters which GM have delivered.  Type 1 has a upper locking plate with 4 holes. This is placed in a cavity with a center hole. With this it is allowed to let oil passing into the push rod. In the bottom there is a plain plate. This moves up and down depending on different pressure in order to lift or letting the inner plunger to be moved.
The middle picture show type 2 where the oil to the push rod is regulated by a plain plate. This is closing against the push rod cup. The push rod cup has a large radius. This and the plate allow the oil to move to the push rod. The lower closing system has a steel ball which moves up and down according to different pressure. This one is the same as in workshop book.
The third picture shows another construction where the upper closing plate has two warts pressed. This allow the oil flow through the push rod cup. The lower closing way has only one plain plate which close against the plunger.
You can see a lifter which is not dismantled among the spare parts.
After dismantling the engine I could take away the push rod and the lifter. Everything looked very nice. I had as spare parts the old hydraulic lifters. Some of them where dismantled. Just to see if they where ok. I compared them with the one in engine. Now I saw that they had different constructions. In this way I found that there where three types. The differences were in the oil closing system. See pictures. This made me very confused. According to workshop manual one must be very keen not to mix the individual lifter parts. After I had changed to another lifter and controlled the push rod and other details, I put the engine together. I started the engine and of course there was no change. The tick valve was there. The conclusion of this must be that the steering hole in the engine block is to much worn. Here a certain leakage is allowed. I had not felt with my finger in the block hole for the lifter. This must be a change of engine block. Such is not available and I can't get a guarantee for this fault. Anyway the ticking sound disappear with higher engine rpm. Now I have stopped this work and tried to console myself that I have driven for several years with this inconvenience noise. Another two pictures.
Show two close spark plugs.  Ref 1
Show two close spark plugs. Ref 1
How I measured time for leakage. Ref 1
How I measured time for leakage. Ref 1
Two close spark plugs. One with better burning. Picture 2 show the way I measured the leakage time. This was so apparent that I had not needed the micrometer clock. It was only for time measuring. Later I found the lifters place in motor block had a sctratch. That's way oil left too easy.
Picture from Workshop book. Ref 1
 Picture from Workshop book. Ref 1



























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Here at last I will show some pictures of important spare parts. They didn't get any place in my article. Still lying in my garage.
Upper ball joint. Ref 1
Upper ball joint. Ref 1
Lower ball joint. Ref 1
Lower ball joint. Ref 1
Tightenings for mounting in the knuckle. Ref 1
Sealers for mounting in the knuckle. Ref 1
Complete bearing. Named A23. Ref 1
Complete bearing. Named A23. Ref 1
The old camshaft and new petrol pump. Ref 1
The old camshaft and new petrol pump. Ref 1
Vacuumpump. Ref 1
Vacuumpump. Ref 1
Coupling for the compressor. Ref 1
Coupling for the compressor. Ref 1
Water pump. Ref 1
Water pump. Ref 1
Full set with hydraulic lifters. Ref 1
Full set with hydraulic lifters. Ref 1
Vacuum switch for the heater fan. Ref 1
Vacuum switch for the heater fan. Ref 1
Start motor. Ref 1
Start motor. Ref 1
           Colour map for 1970 Eldo. Page 1 Ref 1
Colour map for 1970 Eldo. Page 1 Ref 1
          Colour map 1979 Eldo. Page 2. Ref 1
Colour map 1979 Eldo. Page 2. Ref 1
Survey of engine room today 2006. Ref 1
Survey of engine room today 2006. Ref 1
In this order are the parts mounted. Note that dust shield is missing.  Ref 1
In this order are the parts mounted. Note that dust shield is missing. Ref 1
Closed picture of mounting. Ref 1
Closed picture of mounting. Ref 1
Closed picture of mounting. Ref 1
Closed picture of mounting. Ref 1
The yellow cable is current to light relays. Ref 1
The yellow cable is current to light relays. Ref 1
Moderator for gas throttle. Preventing too quick closing of throttle valve. Ref 1
Moderator for gas throttle. Preventing too quick closing of throttle valve. Ref 1
This is dust from the compressor coupling.  Ref 1
This is dust from the compressor coupling. Ref 1
New cables for ignition plugs from Biltema. Ref 1
New cables for ignition plugs from Biltema. Ref 1
Boast picture from my driveway 2006. Ref 1
Boast picture from my driveway 2006. Ref 1
From parking place Rättvik 2005. Ref 1
From parking place Rättvik 2005. Ref 1
Parking place when Cadillac Club has meeting in Stockholm 2002. Ref 1
Parking place when Cadillac Club has meeting in Stockholm 2002. Ref 1

Now is there anything to learn from this. Both yes and no. If you want to raise your knowledge about cars, it was a very good buy. If you thought it was only for boasting your image an driving around it was a disaster. The last has of course been solved and now I only boast myself in the car. But the problem is that with increasing age, need to do this has get lower. Making mechanical works is not so fun anymore. When nothing of these things are actually my emptiness has been filled up with motorcycles. There are no empty places in a man's life and it is filled up with something else. The same thing is valid with  girls.
  My Cadillac Eldorado 1970 at a Club meeting. Ca 2000. Bild CCS webbsida.
Wish luck to all engine interested Cadillac owners.

First Former



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